How to bevel the planks?

[MrBill]

I'm new here but I have spent a lot of time reading many of the posts.
I have ordered my plans and am looking forward to the build.
I was wondering how some of the builders who are using plans only have tackled the challenge of beveling the top of the 1st and 2nd planks.

It seems like it would be easy if there were stringers running the length of the boat along the lines of the panel joins by attaching a rod perpendicular to a plane, laying the rod on the stringer above and following the curve down the plank after it was joined.
Alas, the ship is not designed to be built this way.

How have plans only builders resolved this problem?

[brucemoffatt]

I made up the full size planks before bevelling, on a very long work table. This table used the two pieces which ultimately became the cockpit sole and sole doubler. I joined the bits of the planks together using Payson joints, but it doesn't make any difference whether you do that or scarf them or whatever. Then I lad the planks out one at a time and marked out the width of each bevel from the offsets on sheet 5, and carefully with a very sharp block plane and flat-soled spokeshave tapered each piece to a feather edge to that bevel line. It isn't as hard to judge as you might think. If the planks are restrained in a way that you can still get to the bevel edge you can judge it quite well by eye. Anyway, ask me in about 4 weeks whether mine worked

[Peter E]

I had a power planer but did on the boat. again I eyeballed it. It turned out well. Any little imperfections could be fixed by thickened epoxy. The way Bruce explained is how I would have done it if I hadn't the power planer.

You could also use a belt sander to bevel. Wear a dust mask.

Pete hull 52

[Johnny Walker]

On #24, now referred to as "Renegade," which has violated most other rules, I chose to butt joint and zip-tie the designed lap joints. The end result is a strong rounded chine that was easily beltsanded round from the outside, then glassed. The resulting rounded chine is lower maintenence and can bump a dock or do a beach roll without damage! I have found that the raw edges of 1/4" ply don't last too long and are hard to repair. Caution: I may be alone in this opinion. Johnny

[MrBill]

Thank you for the responses.
I have not yet received my plans so it will obviously be awhile before I get to the stage that I have to worry about beveling the planks but it is the one thing I thought I may have a problem with.
I have strip built a small canoe before but never a project this ambitious. I will be asking a couple more questions on this topic before it is over.

[kenjamin]

I love my little Bosch powerplaner. This is me working on my Caledonia Yawl back in 2007. It's also great for making masts and yards. Any excuse to buy a new tool is a good one. My SCAMP had her planks beveled before putting on the boat. Just put on the suggested angle of bevel and it worked quickly and fit nicely.

Powerplaning.jpg

[Anders Bjorklund]

On #24, now referred to as "Renegade," which has violated most other rules, I chose to butt joint and zip-tie the designed lap joints. The end result is a strong rounded chine that was easily beltsanded round from the outside, then glassed. The resulting rounded chine is lower maintenance and can bump a dock or do a beach roll without damage! I have found that the raw edges of 1/4" ply don't last too long and are hard to repair. Caution: I may be alone in this opinion. Johnny

Yeah, I suppose the exposed edges of glued plywood lapstrake boats are somewhat fragile. I have heard of builders gluing strips of wood to the edges, to cover the ply end grain. But maybe saturating them well with unthickened epoxy would help to seal and strengthen them. Almost anything can be repaired with thickened epoxy, and sometimes fiberglass. The overlapping lapstrake edges do serve as a kind of batten that adds some stiffness to the hull. Planks in curved hull areas and planks that meet at an angle don't need that, because they geometrically stiffen each other. It might make some difference in areas of the hull that are flatter. Butting the planks rather than lapping them certainly would make it easier to cover the entire hull with fiberglass, if that is important to the builder.

I love the look of nicely lined-off lapstrake hulls, and it would take a heap of practical advantages for me to give that up.

Cheers,
Anders

[julie]

Mr. Bill,

I just tackled this issue on Sunday.

I measured the points, used a batten to connect them, then used a draw shave to take off the bulk, a block plane to smooth it out, then some sandpaper to finish it. It went by quickly, even with the hand tools.

Good luck with your build!

#131

[Lachie88]

I found the easiest way to get the angles for the bevels was to fix the planks to the bulkheads and the bottom first and after the epoxy has cured if you look along from either bow or stern you can easily see the bevel angle required using the edge of the bulkheads as your guide. Using a belt sander with 60 grit the job can be done easily.