Build of Hull 52

The place to discuss SCAMP (Small Craft Advisor Magazine Project), our 11' 11" micro minicruiser.

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Peter E
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Posts: 375
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:17 pm
Location: USA Midwest Wis.

Re: Build of Hull 52

Post by Peter E »

I don't want to steer you wrong, I had on hand other materials. I built a frame out of 2by 6s so the hight of the chip wood was less than the manual or print. So I was able to build the jig out of one sheet of 3/4" chip board. So a question would be what do you have on hand ?

I bought a twenty five foot tape measure that had metric on one side and English on the other. I do all converting on that. Later on I got a meter stick. I wish I would had that earlier in the build. It is easier to do every thing in metric. If you don't have meter stick get one and make sure it has metric marking on both sides other wise you are always turning It end for end when measuring. A meter stick, a two foot square and plenty of sharp pencils are needed for the first part of the build. Add to that a felt pen so certain marks show up. I don't know if you have access to a large roll of paper but that would nice for laying out patterns other wise inexpensive ply.

I realize you are out back so what kind of tools do you have or access to? Some are nice to have others are essential.
Peter E
Major Contributor
Posts: 375
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:17 pm
Location: USA Midwest Wis.

Re: Build of Hull 52

Post by Peter E »

With the bottom built and some of the bulkheads done It was time for a trial fit. The first of many. It took a lot of clamps the first time for the seat longitudinals were not done. The slots in the bulkheads and the seat longitudinals were not cut at this time.

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Peter E
Major Contributor
Posts: 375
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:17 pm
Location: USA Midwest Wis.

Re: Build of Hull 52

Post by Peter E »

If you look closely at the previous picture you will notice bulkhead 5 is missing. Bulkhead 5 five gave me fits, tribulations, hair pulling ( I don't have a lot of extra hair to pull) One of the reasons is something that is missing from the print. A measurement from the center line to the seat longitudinal ? Now in hind site the measurement from the rest of the bulkheads from the center line to the seat longitudinals is the same. :shock:

This picture shows some of the taping for fillets and if you look by the center board slot a correction of the tape. At this point I still didn't have bulkhead 5 figured out correctly.

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Finally a redo of bulkhead 5

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Here we are getting every thing to line up. We have some fillets done at this point.

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Peter E
Major Contributor
Posts: 375
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:17 pm
Location: USA Midwest Wis.

Re: Build of Hull 52

Post by Peter E »

Next thing was to get the center board trunk done. This picture shows the seat longitudinal covered in epoxy with graphite. It gives it some slicken sliden. One step back in order to get this far and cut the center board slot you have to know how wide the center board is.

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This is the board after two pieces of 3/4" ply were cut, a opening routed out and filled with eighteen pounds of lead and glued together. I was able to get a lead roof vent that weighed about twenty five pounds. I sawed it apart and hammered pieces flat with a large hammer along with some thiner sheet lead I had. You can see the brown slot, thats what happens if you don't tighten down you router hight adjustment enough. A little epoxy with wood filler a small piece of plastic underneath and repair is made.

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This is the first layer of glass after the board had been shaped. The board was faired with epoxy and filler. When It looked right then a final coat of epoxy and graphite. The holes were marked and drilled before any fiberglassing was done. They were then covered over until the fiberglassing and graphite were done. At that time I reopened them and epoxied a brass sleeve in the center pin hole. I drilled the hole on a drill press so It was square with the board. I bought the brass sleeve from you friendly local hard ware man. The price was cheaper than the Internet.

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Peter E
Major Contributor
Posts: 375
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:17 pm
Location: USA Midwest Wis.

Re: Build of Hull 52

Post by Peter E »

I coated the center board with epoxy and graphite. I got the graphite from Duck works. This wasn't included in their Scamp package. I got the bushings at my local Ace hardware store. I cut the bushings to length and then epoxied them in. I drilled out the hole on a drill press to get it perfectly square. I had to build a stand to hold on end of the center board. It is too heavy to hold free hand.

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Where the rope is there are two holes the one you see and one that will be the up hall line. Those holes are smoothed and coated with epoxy. The reason the rope is on there I used it to install the center board for a trial fit. Installing the center board it would be nice to have another pair of hands.

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Peter E
Major Contributor
Posts: 375
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:17 pm
Location: USA Midwest Wis.

Re: Build of Hull 52

Post by Peter E »

The first part of the center board case part of the seat longitudinal. I drilled the hole according to the print location. This I also did on the drill press.

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Inside I added the doubler. The hole was drilled from the outside using the hole in the seat longitudinal as a guide. The holes at this time were only as big as the center board pin.

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This is the outside of the center board case with the doubler on and the hole drilled, bushing in place with the pin. The block of wood with a hole in it will fit over the pin and will be glued to the doubler to make a water tight fit.
How I got to this point took a little head scratching to get ever thing square. If you are a MM off or a few thousands it doesn't fit. First off a few tools I found necessary, a drill gage ( a proper size drill for the pin and a proper size for the bushing) You don't want any slop. Next two files, one a flat or bastard file and a rat tail file. (large but smaller than the inside the bushing)
The holes were made on the inside of the centerboard case and the bushing was installed. This was square to the case and checked with a square. With a drill the same size as the pin using the bushing as a guide I drilled a hole in the out board case. Then from the outside I enlarged the hole for the bushing. Dry fit the bushing and tried the pin in. This is where it gets fussy. The pin should slide in with just two fingers. You don't want to be fighting a pin when you install your center board and you don't want a sloppy fit either. This where the files come in to play. I had a stainless steel bolt with threads on one end. I tapered the threads, semi bullet, makes it easier to slide it in. Next a little Vaseline makes things easier.(thats all I will say about that) If at this point the pin is still being difficult the rattail file comes in to play. If somehow you hole didn't quite line up you might half to elongate the whole for the bushing slightly. Remember thicken epoxy can do wonders. Ok the pin slides in but is a little tite, the bushing is installed. The rattail file is your friend. A little at a time with Vaseline until two fingers will take it in and out.


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Peter E
Major Contributor
Posts: 375
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:17 pm
Location: USA Midwest Wis.

Re: Build of Hull 52

Post by Peter E »

The pin was covered on the outboard side of the centerboard case with this block which was epoxy coated. The pinhole with several coats, then fastened with thickened epoxy. The picture was taken after it was primed with white paint.

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The inboard pin will be fastened with a O ring and silicon and then three screws to hold it in place. The bolt is epoxied to the small piece of ply.

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As I said before frame No 5 gave me conniptions. This was after the frame was installed and fillet in. When I discovered the error I left the shop and went in the house and had a cup of coffee, what self control. Anyway the blue smoke had to clear out of the shop. Now there is a solution to any problem.
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Peter E
Major Contributor
Posts: 375
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:17 pm
Location: USA Midwest Wis.

Re: Build of Hull 52

Post by Peter E »

A very handy tool to make short work of what could been a major setback. The multi tool. There are some pretty expensive ones and if I were making my living building and remodeling thats what I would get. I got mine on sale and one thing I discovered the blades or attachments are what really cost. One good quality blade is almost as expensive as the tool. I used this tool as a real time saver. Made short work of removing the bulkhead. I also have used the tool for cutting out circles in bulkheads. the tool starts a hole for the jig saw blade. Better than a drill.

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The fix all fillet in. You might wonder why all the extra wood pieces. I did not have 9mm ply for the bulkheads and all bulkheads a 6mm so they are reinforced with pine wood about 20mm by 30mm. This took additional time but stiffened the bulkheads up and provided a place for screws to hold.

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Peter E
Major Contributor
Posts: 375
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:17 pm
Location: USA Midwest Wis.

Re: Build of Hull 52

Post by Peter E »

I finally got bulkhead no 5 fixed and got on to the next project.
The doors in bulkhead No 3 If time was of the escence then I would buy some hundred dollar doors. Winning the lottery would help but I always forget to buy a ticket. So this is my solution. I like flush doors. Some kitchen cabinets I built had to have them so why not on a sail boat. First marking out the doors. I used the multi tool to start the cut then jig saw cut straight to the corners.

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Next I made a piece to hold the door in the opening. The view is from the forward side of the bulkhead. I made the piece by taking the door that I cut out and laying it on a piece of ply and marking the opening and then making a opening about 1/4 " inch, 6mm, smaller than the opening for the door.

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Peter E
Major Contributor
Posts: 375
Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:17 pm
Location: USA Midwest Wis.

Re: Build of Hull 52

Post by Peter E »

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Now that the door fit the opening and could not fall through the problem of how to make it water proof or sealed. After some head scratching this is the solution I came up with. I was thinking of O-rings cutting groves in a backing piece but I kept it simpler , not necessarily better just simpler. I made another backing piece 1/4" ,6mm smaller, that will have some foam, sticky backed window sealer put on it. That will fit on what you see as dark wood in the opening.

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I will install a full piano hinge and sliding bolt lock. These will be installed after the SCAMP is painted. So using ply that I had on hand and purchasing piano and bolt lock I will have about ten dollars in each door.
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