SCAMP #558
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SCAMP #558
The adventure begins, hull kit #558 arrived in Petaluma, California. First step in boat building problem solving, breaking apart the kit package so I can get it into my garage!
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- dsimonson
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Re: SCAMP #558
Yahoo!! Good news, phatguppy!! Have fun at every stage... sounds like you're starting with the right attitude!
All the best,
Dale
All the best,
Dale
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SCAMP #558 - Dry Fitting Bulkheads
Hello SCAMP community, I'm at a fun stage where a boat goes from two dimensions on paper to three on wood. One thing that's hard to envision on paper, but easy to see in wood, is the robust design and volume that is implied in this little boat. Since #588 is from the CNC kit, there was an added bonus of getting some "extra" wood pieces, which conveniently made a tool shelf for my project.
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SCAMP #558 - Centerboard Weights?
Hi SCAMP community, wanted to get some feedback on weighting the centerboard. I have the foils kit, which is very nice in terms of being a nearly finished centerboard product, ready for glassing. The SCAMP manual has a good section on cutting out a weight pocket into the foils and adding lead. I would opt for lead shot, as I don't want to mess with melting, pouring lead and I have a source for some lead shot pellets from dive weights. However, I did some research and found 1/8" thick lead sheet that fits just fine between the two foil halves, provides 24 pounds of negative weight, but does leave a noticeable gap.
My question, would this 1/8" gap ruin the whole idea of a foil, or is this a nominal price to pay for using lead sheet to weight the foils? Any suggestions, feedback sincerely appreciated.
My question, would this 1/8" gap ruin the whole idea of a foil, or is this a nominal price to pay for using lead sheet to weight the foils? Any suggestions, feedback sincerely appreciated.
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- wdscobie
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Re: SCAMP #558
That gap changes the foil shape and decreases its effectiveness.
Why not router out a slightly deeper pocket so the halves can be placed together?
Why not cut the sheet to be slightly smaller? Lead isn't difficult to cut.
Why not router out a slightly deeper pocket so the halves can be placed together?
Why not cut the sheet to be slightly smaller? Lead isn't difficult to cut.
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:: Dave Scobie
:: Liveaboard: Baba 30 DEJA VU
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:: Dave Scobie
:: Liveaboard: Baba 30 DEJA VU
:: Owner M6'8" dingy
:: Former SWALLOW - https://saulboatswallow.wordpress.com
:: Former M17 SWEET PEA - https://m17-375.com
:: Former M15 SCRED - https://m15namedscred.wordpress.com/
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Re: SCAMP #558
Thanks Dave Scobie, that's a good solution to route a pocket into the two haves then cut/fold the lead over, keeping the foil shape intact.
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Re: SCAMP #558
I chose to pour lead and make pockets.
Never sone that before, and found it really easy as the lead melts at low temps.
I used the two predrilled holes in the foils , a string in them and a pencil at the other end to draw arcs that intersect each other at the exact same point in the two foils as you want mirror pockets.
Poured lead goes into every little nook and imperfection, it is a perfect fit and you stop when it is flush with the surface. MAKE SURE THE FOILS ARE LEVEL.
The process is forgiving: not heavy enough? remove the slugs and rout 1mm more. Melt a bit more and remelt the lead and repour.
I first put an aluminium sheet in the pocket, but the wood calculated anyway and the lead did not go everywhere. So I did not put aluminium the second time and I was happy with the result.
No trimming, perfect fit, and you can remove the slugs to epoxy knowing they will go right back in exactly.
Never sone that before, and found it really easy as the lead melts at low temps.
I used the two predrilled holes in the foils , a string in them and a pencil at the other end to draw arcs that intersect each other at the exact same point in the two foils as you want mirror pockets.
Poured lead goes into every little nook and imperfection, it is a perfect fit and you stop when it is flush with the surface. MAKE SURE THE FOILS ARE LEVEL.
The process is forgiving: not heavy enough? remove the slugs and rout 1mm more. Melt a bit more and remelt the lead and repour.
I first put an aluminium sheet in the pocket, but the wood calculated anyway and the lead did not go everywhere. So I did not put aluminium the second time and I was happy with the result.
No trimming, perfect fit, and you can remove the slugs to epoxy knowing they will go right back in exactly.
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Re: SCAMP #558
the foils don t have a gap,
I ended up with some 16 pounds which does a huge difference as the weight is real down there.
I ended up with some 16 pounds which does a huge difference as the weight is real down there.
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Re: SCAMP #558
Thanks Marc, decided to follow the advice of you and others and route internal pockets to fit pre-cut 1/4" lead sheet, with some extra lead pellets to fill void spaces as needed, then embed in epoxy. Will do the same for the rudder.
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SCAMP #558 Mast Trunk
A question to the SCAMP community that is building from the newer CNC kit. I have dry fitted the mast trunk to B3, all fits fine but the bottom piece protruding though the hole in B3 does not look quite right. The CNC cut wood does not quite match the diagrams in the build manual, cockpit sole fore and aft do not have puzzle pieces, and the mast step with puzzle piece, does not exist. Let me know if you had the same experience or have thoughts on the build.
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