Scamp #337 - Novice, Plans Build (Formally "Introducing")

The place to discuss SCAMP (Small Craft Advisor Magazine Project), our 11' 11" micro minicruiser.

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GregWads
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Re: Scamp #337 - Novice, Plans Build (Formally "Introducing"

Post by GregWads »

After dry fitting the frames the centerboard gap appears to be larger on the aft end.
CBgapFrwd.jpg
While traveling through Chattanooga TN, earlier this year, I stopped and picked up roughly 48 board feet of air dried, 4 quarters, rough-sawn, Cypress to use for the cleats, carlins and centerboard slot end posts. Using my table saw as a thickness planer leaves me with material between 7/8 inch and 1 inch thick (depending on the board.) Hence the reason the posts are two pieces to get the required inch and half.
CBslotRearGap.jpg
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GregWads
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Re: Scamp #337 - Novice, Plans Build (Formally "Introducing")

Post by GregWads »

Well I have all of the frames glued in-place. I still have joints to fillet. I want to bevel and install the transom next. How do you hold the transom in-place while the epoxy cures?

After the transom I will be figuring out the slots for the carlins in bulkheads 2, 3 & 4 and the pockets in bulkhead 1 and the transom.

Thanks to my apparent in-ability to use measuring tools, I also have a lot of oopsies to correct. I need to re-cut the pockets for support stringers in B4. After locating the spot for the pockets, by centering B3 against B4 then cutting with a router, I realized that I had not measure and cut B3 correctly (See correction on StrbSide image). There is also something wonky about how I measured and cut the port side deck of B4. Also the the camber of the top of B2 appears off compared to B3 & B4. I have a nice piece of Mahogany, I believe I will make something pretty to cover that oopsie as well.
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GregWads
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Re: Scamp #337 - Novice, Plans Build (Formally "Introducing")

Post by GregWads »

Sorry for not being around for a while and not posting more pics.
I now have the boat fully planked. All of the bulkheads, except the Transom, and bottom were maked for their desing width but cut a bit wider to allow for beveling before planking. I cut the lowest planks about 2 inches wider to account for the bevel of the boat bottom. The bottom plank glued to the bevel. The bottom of the lower plank overhangs the bottom of the boat, which I plan to plane off, once I turn the boat over.

The manual stated to tape the seam between the bottom of the boat and bottom plank. I assume this because the typical seam between the bottom and the bottom plank is simply edge glued. Is taping this seam still necessary with the wider beveled glueing surface?
RedFalcon
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Re: Scamp #337 - Novice, Plans Build (Formally "Introducing")

Post by RedFalcon »

GregWads wrote:
Fri Jun 17, 2022 12:00 pm
The manual stated to tape the seam between the bottom of the boat and bottom plank. I assume this because the typical seam between the bottom and the bottom plank is simply edge glued. Is taping this seam still necessary with the wider beveled glueing surface?
I'm not necessarily the best person to answer your question, as I have not built a Scamp, but I have built numerous small boats using the stitch and glue method, fiberglass cloth, and epoxy. But since no one else responded, I'll give it a shot. If by "tape" you mean fiberglass cloth embedded in epoxy, then I would say you definitely want it. I don't think glue (are you referring to epoxy?) would be strong enough. Although thicked epoxy formed into a fillet is often used to hold two panels together, the bottom panels of a boat usually have epoxy embedded fiberglass across the joints.
Last edited by RedFalcon on Sun Jun 19, 2022 10:18 am, edited 2 times in total.
GregWads
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Re: Scamp #337 - Novice, Plans Build (Formally "Introducing")

Post by GregWads »

Yes by tape I am talking about 2 inch wide fiberglass tape. The glue used for all joints in the boat is thickend epoxy.

There is a detail on the plans that shows a cross section of the garboard strake and boat bottom joint. The detail shows the bottom edge of the garboard as square and the edge of the bottom plank as square, with the edge of the garboard touching the side of the bottom, then the joint is filled with thickend epoxy and fiberglass cloth on both sides. The top edge of the garboard and the top edge of the middle planks beveled as you would expect on lapstrake construction. I am building from plans so I added width to the garboard strake and also beveled the bottom so that I could lap the garboard over the bottom, not the edge joint shown on the plans.

When I finish the outside of the boat there will be two overlapping layers of fiberglass on the outside of the bottom/garboard joint. Guess I will just go ahead and fiberglass and epoxy the inside seam.
GregWads
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Re: Scamp #337 - Novice, Plans Build (Formally "Introducing")

Post by GregWads »

What is the preferred species of wood to use for the Carlins and Rubrail?
I toyed with the idea of using Mahagony for the rubrail but can nolonger find a reasonably priced local source. The piece I could get somewhat locally would cost over $200 and I would only be using a fraction of it. So I am thinking about white oak for the rubrails. The white oak would end up being quite a bit less expensive and would not be such a large piece of wood.

I also had a question regarding the order of installation? The manual says to install the rubrails before installing the carlins, but pictures in the manual show the carlins already installed before the rubrails.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
RedFalcon
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Re: Scamp #337 - Novice, Plans Build (Formally "Introducing")

Post by RedFalcon »

I've used white oak for gunwales on several builds. No problems to date.
GregWads
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Re: Scamp #337 - Novice, Plans Build (Formally "Introducing")

Post by GregWads »

I now have the boat planked. I also have the carlins, rubrails and the foredeck supports installed. Sorry no pictures.

Thinking ahead about the mast. I have read on a couple of blogs regarding the amount of force requrired to raise the sail due the simple hole causing a lot of friction. I had been thinking about using a sheave, but recently came across Davey & Co. traditional marine supplies. Davey.co.uk. One of the items they make are brass mast bands. Depending on the size they come with 2 or 4 loops. Would something like that work for hanging a block for the halyard? If so what size would be recommended?

Thanks,
Greg.
GregWads
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Posts: 123
Joined: Thu Sep 03, 2015 9:58 am
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Re: Scamp #337 - Novice, Plans Build (Formally "Introducing")

Post by GregWads »

I am getting ready to install the cabin top. I tried clamping the top over the boat for a week to put in a pre-bend, which did little. I have coated the underside with Epoxy, but because of the force it took to dry bend the top, I was thinking about waiting until after I had glued the top on before covering the top side with epoxy. Is this a good idea or should I just go ahead and coat both sides before installing?
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