Scamp Build in Kansas!
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Re: Scamp Build in Kansas!
The backing plates for horn cleats were glued in before the deck. Scrap wood strips covered with packing tape and a dab of hot glue kept them flush while epoxy cured.
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Re: Scamp Build in Kansas!
More mini-monumental moments: Deck is on! Cabin sides gluing!
I just love Ash (cabin top cleats). It's dense, flexible and kind of buttery to plane. I am going to leave a bit of it bright finished.
I just love Ash (cabin top cleats). It's dense, flexible and kind of buttery to plane. I am going to leave a bit of it bright finished.
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Re: Scamp Build in Kansas!
I...couldn't find port lights or rings, so I made my own out of 316 stainless steel for the outside and permanently epoxied wood rings on the inside. This didn't make much sense, but I just really, really wanted shiny windows..I HAD to have shiny windows for this cute little boat.
Cutting out:
Refining a bit:
and all polished up:
Cutting out:
Refining a bit:
and all polished up:
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Re: Scamp Build in Kansas!
Inside cabin:
The wooden ring was epoxy on and then the hole cut. Then a lip was created by routing out enough space between the S.S. ring and the inside wood to put 1/4" thick laminated glass (local glass shop cut it to size).
If I had seen the bronze rings that Duckworks is selling now, I would have used those instead, but I'm happy with my shiny rings.
The wooden ring was epoxy on and then the hole cut. Then a lip was created by routing out enough space between the S.S. ring and the inside wood to put 1/4" thick laminated glass (local glass shop cut it to size).
If I had seen the bronze rings that Duckworks is selling now, I would have used those instead, but I'm happy with my shiny rings.
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Re: Scamp Build in Kansas!
Taking care of more details like backing plates for the cabin top hardware...5"x5" I think. I rasped the plates roughly to fit the curve of the cabin top:
The cockpit coaming rails (Ash):
and the stern transom cap (I glued wood in the gap to save on epoxy:
The cockpit coaming rails (Ash):
and the stern transom cap (I glued wood in the gap to save on epoxy:
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Re: Scamp Build in Kansas!
The rudder blade ended up being a little thicker than planned (my glue-up and 2 layers of glass), so I glued the core first with an extra layer of kit scrap hand planed down to around 1/8" to create a wider rudder:
Once the core was glued (I only used 2-3 of the alignment holes and left the rest open for glueing the cheeks on later), I routed and prepared the copper tubes.
Things shifted slightly I think, and the holes for bushings were out of alignment. The holes were enlarged slightly and a dowel (previously coated with beeswax) was inserted through the bushings to make sure they were lined up and square as they were glued in - same done for the rudder blade too:
Once the core was glued (I only used 2-3 of the alignment holes and left the rest open for glueing the cheeks on later), I routed and prepared the copper tubes.
Things shifted slightly I think, and the holes for bushings were out of alignment. The holes were enlarged slightly and a dowel (previously coated with beeswax) was inserted through the bushings to make sure they were lined up and square as they were glued in - same done for the rudder blade too:
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Re: Scamp Build in Kansas!
Pintles and gudgeons...I couldn't find quite the right size so I ordered an oversized 11/2" race-lite set and customized it a bit - shortened and redrilled the bottom pintle, and bent both to narrow the span enough for a good fit. It might not matter, but that had the added effect of pushing the rudder aft, giving it a bit more clearance as it rotates side to side and angles in towards the transom. Some time with clamps, an old ball hitch as anvil, a hammer, and a propane touch did the trick:
-Might have been easier to buy the set made for the SCAMP and router out the extra-wide rudder to accommodate, but this is the way I did it...
-Might have been easier to buy the set made for the SCAMP and router out the extra-wide rudder to accommodate, but this is the way I did it...
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Re: Scamp Build in Kansas!
Tiller extension glue-up
The ash tiller is based on the plans with a little "S" curve laminated in.
Getting rudder hardware located (drill/fill/drill):
The ash tiller is based on the plans with a little "S" curve laminated in.
Getting rudder hardware located (drill/fill/drill):
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Re: Scamp Build in Kansas!
Striking the waterline came next:
I am really glad I did this while still level, on the jig. My space is tight, so some yoga moves were required...two level boards, two strings and a cheap laser level taped to a tripod (and my eyeballs) -- it seemed to work.
I used a sharpie hoping the ink sinks in a bit, so I don't sand off the line accidentally.
I am really glad I did this while still level, on the jig. My space is tight, so some yoga moves were required...two level boards, two strings and a cheap laser level taped to a tripod (and my eyeballs) -- it seemed to work.
I used a sharpie hoping the ink sinks in a bit, so I don't sand off the line accidentally.
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Re: Scamp Build in Kansas!
I've put a bit of thought into anchor and rode storage and how that would work with other things. I wanted to be able to keep 2 anchors on board with a little chain and maybe 150' of rode each. I made a fisherman anchor that I like, but it's kind of a pain getting it ready when it has to be deployed quickly. I plan to anchor in a variety of bottoms; muddy, rocky, rooty reservoir bottoms, maybe some sandy bottoms, definitely rocky Georgian Bay bottoms.
I decided to go with two small Rochna anchors. They are pretty light at 9 lbs. each but hopefully they will hold well enough for overnighters. I worked out a storage solution...
Cut up some leftover mahogany and steel:
Covered with some left over Dynel:
I decided to go with two small Rochna anchors. They are pretty light at 9 lbs. each but hopefully they will hold well enough for overnighters. I worked out a storage solution...
Cut up some leftover mahogany and steel:
Covered with some left over Dynel:
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Last edited by ericleif on Fri Aug 25, 2017 9:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.